The past decade has seen some dynamic restaurant groups emerge, replicating a finely tuned formula and creating a new wave of chains in everything but name: these groups are concept creation power houses, hype machines and expert operators, getting to a decent scale whilst avoiding perceptions of being mass-market, corporate or cookie cutter. They're attracting investor attention, with Big Mamma Group securing €270 million from McWin last year, and JKS raising £10 million for further domestic and international expansion.
Compared to luxury dining groups that open flagships in major international cities, what is interesting about these players is that they offer casual dining and street food (sometimes alongside fine-dining) - meaning they have greater scalability potential within a single country. They can build up good economies of scale, purchasing power and centralised operations, and they do not rely on entering quite as many new markets and are therefore less exposed to risk. They present a new model for casual-dining to scale, against the backdrop of legacy chain administrations that saw groups like Ask, Strada, and Pizza Express effectively halve their portfolios overnight.
Big Mamma Group exemplifies this “anti-chain” approach. Their venues, instantly recognisable with their back lit towering bar displays, garish drinksware and long queues, offer undeniably fun atmospheres. From their classic trattoria roots to La Felicità, a 1,000-seat market hall in Paris, they've built a successful empire with signature design touches and energetic service, applied to distinct concepts. Similarly, JKS, originally known for Michelin-starred Indian restaurants, ventured into casual brands like Hoppers and Bao, creating miniature chains within their portfolio, before taking over London's Arcade Food Hall in 2022, and recently launching a second Arcade in Battersea Power Station.
Across the Channel, France boasts another “anti-chain” champion: Paris Society. Founded in 2008, they've grown into an empire encompassing 27 restaurants alongside nightclubs and hotels. Their portfolio includes maximalist casual trattorias like Il Bambini in Palais de Tokyo, to Michelin-starred Apicus and luxurious pan-Asian, Mūn. They expanded into London in 2020 with their four-storey creole-inspired Louie, and have opened night clubs in the US and UAE. Like JKS, they are cuisine-agnostic, span a wide range of price-points, and have a number of mini-chains with several venues. However, rather than opening several in the same city, Gigi Rigolatto, for example, can be found in Paris, Ramatuelle, and Val d’Isère, and nightclub Raspoutine offers ”a hedonistic escape” in Paris, Los Angeles, and Dubai. The approach of individualised openings maximises PR potential, appealing to influencers and taste-makers who want to be the first to discover them. Whilst each space has its own personality, there is a common thread running through them - think live music pulsating through grand art-deco interiors, Instagrammable dishes and fun, informal service. Paris Society thrives on creating immersive experiences, solidifying their position as a leading force in the "anti-chain" revolution.
Beyond Europe, other territories are buzzing with innovative models. The UAE-based Independent Food Company boasts diverse brands that have captured the public imagination. Their first brand, SALT, served burgers from an airstream trailer, became a viral sensation and now has 22 locations, hundreds of thousands of Instagram followers and millions of views on Tik Tok. They have gone on to create a string of other successful concepts from Parkers to Somewhere, each with a clear sense of story-telling imbued into the brand. Parker’s for example is a nostalgic, comfort food brand which built a viral opening campaign around receiving keys to a fictional park, and launched a Matilda chocolate cake, leveraging iconic moments from pop culture. Also from the UAE, EatX was founded by two Australians who opened their first venue, Tom & Serg, in a renovated warehouse in the industrial district of Al Quoz. Their easy antipodean style resonated with customers seeking an escape from the typical mall experience, and they've since grown to encompass twenty locations, from trendy coffee shops to all day eateries.
Another Middle Eastern success story is Macneyuda, the group behind London’s trendy Coal Office, Parisian hotspot Boubalé, and several international eateries. Embracing industrial design, Levantine flavours and inventive cocktails, MacneYuda's magic lies in its ability to create vibrant atmospheres, with warm hospitality and playful touches, such the whole team raising a glass with you at their namesake restaurant in Jerusalem.
What unites these groups is an "effortlessly cool" persona that isn't effortless at all. From carefully curated menus to hiring policies that prioritise a certain vibe, every element is orchestrated to achieve the desired effect. Their dedication to constructing an aspirational image thrives on a delicate balance between substance and style. The winners will be those that go beyond aesthetics. While masterful marketing and Instagrammable design generate initial buzz, the best groups understand that compelling experiences require more. They leverage economies of scale behind the scenes while maintaining a polished yet personal touch. Looking ahead, we expect to see further expansion, exciting collaborations, and potential acquisitions as these "anti-chains" navigate the global stage. Meanwhile, we are already seeing more established chains diverging from a cookie-cutter approach, with a greater degree of variation in their designs, local touches and menu specials. Altogether, this shift signals a new era in dining, where both rising stars and seasoned players prioritise curated, experience-driven, localised antidotes to the homogenised high street.
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